Shoe-pattern for upper-leathers.



J. A. VANDENBBRG. SHOE PATTERN FOR UPPER LEATHERS.

APPLIOATION FILED MAE.1B, 190B.

Patented July 8, 1913.

anvautoz [aide/26a) Queuing;

CULUMHIA IILANUUNAVH CO, WASHINITUNI I),

JOHN A. VANDENIBERG, OF EAST LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE-PATTERN FOR UPPER-LEATHERS Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented July 8, 1913.

Application filed March 18, 1908. Serial No. 421,857.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN A. VANnnN- mum, citizen of the United States,residing at East Lynn, in the State of Massachusetts, have inventedcertain new and useful Improvements in Shoe-Patterns for Uppcr-Leathers, of which the following is a specification.

This invention comprehends certain new and useful improvements in theart of cutting upper leather in the manufacture of shoes, and theinvention has for its object an improved construction of shoe patterndesigned to effect certain economies in the cutting room, both asregards the time of the workman, the leather worked upon and in thestock itself from which the patterns are formed.

l/Vith this and other objects in view as will more fully appear as thedescription proceeds, the invention consists in certain constructionsand arrangements of the parts that I shall hereinafter fully describeand claim.

For a full understanding of the invention, reference is to be had to thefollowing description and accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a portion of a vamp pattern, constructed in accordance withthe principles of my invention; Fig. 2 is a similar view of a patternfor a quarter; and, Fig. 3 is a View of the stock out of which a quarterpattern may be formed, illustrating how a saving of the stock iseffected by my invention.

Corresponding and like parts are referred to in the followingdescription and indicated in all the views of the drawings by the samereference characters.

It has heretofore been customary, in the cutting rooms of shoefactories, for the cutters to employ solid and opaque patterns,constructed of junk-board, with a metal marginal binding. As heretoforepractised, the operator lays his patterns upon the leather to be cut andin so doing, covers up all of the leather lying within the margins ofthe several patterns, and then cuts around the margins, the work beingdone in an'entirely blind manner so far as any inspection of the leatheris concerned that lies within the border of the pattern. After a parthas been cut, the operator picks it up and examines it carefully toascertain Whether any imperfections exist and if they do appear, thepart containing them must be either cut up for smaller parts, or discarded, thereby entailing a waste which amounts to a considerable item,owing to the comparatively high cost of upper leather.

I am aware that prior to my invention glass shoe patterns have beenused, but the same have been obviously unsatisfactory, owing to theirfragile nature, and in order to overcome blind cutting, so to speak,while at the same time to produce patterns that will effect the savingin the stock out of which the patterns are formed, as well as in theleather operated upon, I have produced the patterns as illustrated inthe accompanying drawing.

In carrying out my invention, I form the patterns out of some durableand sullicientiy stifl' relatively thin. material or metal and one thatwill not warp, using, for instance, zinc, galvanized iron, common sheetiron, copper, brass, or the like. Each pattern embodies an openframework defined by a rim 1 of any desired width, said rim being preferably comparatively narrow, but not so narrow as to sacrifice strength,and said rim being of uniform width throughout. Take, for instance, thevamp pattern illustrated in Fig. 1; it will be seen that this pattern inaddition to its rim 1 embodies cross-bars, which in the present instanceare two in number, designated 2 and 3, and it is to be particularlynoted that the brace 3 near the tip end of the vamp pattern is curvedand is at a distance flOIl'l the extreme forward end of the patternequal to the length of the tip which corresponds to the size of saidvamp pattern, the said brace 25 defining one side of the open space 4:.By the use of a vamp pattern of this character, it will be seen that theoperator can move the vamp pattern over faces of leather in such amanner that any imperfection in the leather may be included in the saidspace 1. The vamp may then be cut, and it is clear that its value willnot be detracted from for the reason that when the imperfections occur,the tip cut around the tip pattern illustrated in Fig. 3 will cover upthe imperfections when the tip is stretched over and sewed to the vamp.Obviously, without the open work pattern, this operation could not beperformed readily, because a solid and opaque vamp pattern would notrender the impcr fection as readily discernible before the vamp has beencut. Hence, it will be seen that the brace 3 subserves a doublefunction, that is, it serves'as a distinguishing mark where the vamppattern may be put to cut out the vamp portion as well as a brace forthe open framelil-:e vamp pattern.

It will be seen that the same construction previously described ispresent in the form shown in Fig. 2. In this construction there is apiece of sheet material so cut as to define an outline of a shoe part ofa certain size, the interior of the sheet being cut away so as to leavea framelike structure 2 of uniform Width, the inner edge of whichdefines a like pattern to the outer edge thereof but of a smaller size,the material inclosed by said pattern being capable of being inspected.In Fig. 2 the frame is crossed by a brace and one edge of this brace 3and that portion of the outer edge of the frame disposed below saidbrace defines the outline of a certain relatively small part of a shoe,as for instance a quarter for a low shoe, this quarter corresponding insize to the size of the pattern defined by the outer edge of the frame.

In addition to efi ecting a saving in the material, as well as in theworkmans time, it is obvious that my improved construction of patternwill effect economies in the pattern stock itself, for instance, byreference to Fig. 3, it will be seen that after a quarter pattern hasbeen cut out, the two parts 5 and 6 cut therefrom to form the frame-likepattern may be utilized as other smaller parts. As for example, the tippattern 6 and the tongue pattern 5. The same remarks apply to the stockout of which the vamp pattern is cut, as the interior parts of the metalor other material to form the frame-like pattern may be used in makingpatterns for tongues, or back stays.

' From the foregoing description in connection with the accompanyingdrawing, it will be seen that I have provided a very durable, simple,and efiicient construction of shoe pattern that will withstand longcontinued use, be easy to handle, owing to its lightness and strength,and, which is more important, will effect a considerable saving in theworkmans time and in the manufacturers material as well as in the stockitself from which the patterns are formed.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new is:

1. As an article of manufacture, the herein described pattern for theparts of shoes consisting of a piece of stiff sheet material the outlineof which exactly defines one of said parts to be cut, the interior ofthe sheet being cut-away to leave a frame-like structure having atransversely extending cross' brace, the openings defined by said braceand the frame permitting the material in closed by the frame to beexamined, the inner edge of the frame defining a like pattern to theouter edge but of a smaller size, one

edge of the cross brace and a portion of the outer edge of the frame toone side of the cross brace defining the outline of a certain relativelysmall part of a shoe corresponding in size to the size of the patterndefined by the outer edge of the frame. 7

2. As a new article of manufacture, the

herein described pattern for the parts of shoes consisting of a piece ofstifi'- sheet material the outline of which exactly defines one of saidparts to be cut, the interior of the sheetbeing cut-away to leave aframelike structure having a transversely extending cross brace, theopenings defined by said brace and the frame permitting the materialinclosed by the frame to be examined,

rior of the sheet material being cut-out to a leave a frame-likestructure of uniform width, that portion of the vamp pattern whichdefines the toe of the vamp having a transversely extending brace, thespace inclosed between one edge of the brace and the outer edge of thetoe portion of the frame being equal in area to and having the shape ofthe tip of a shoe corresponding in size to the size of the vamp.

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

JOHN A. VANDENBERG. [Ls] lVitnesses:

EDWIN C. Lnwrs, MINNEOLLA M. GoonwlN.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Gommissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

